A dear reader recently asked us about wine in boxes. Before diving into a reply, click here to take a look at the Santa Rosa's Press-Democrat thoughts on the very subject.
(Short version, they like the Black Box brand, which you will recall is produced by Constellation, as well as jugs that consumers can take to stores and wineries to fill up.)
Wine in boxes is a wonderful idea. The wine is actually inside a plastic bag inside the box. The bag collapses as the wine is dispensed, so the wine remains free of oxygen. An opened box wine can stay fresh for weeks, and is a convenient thing to have on the counter, especially when you would like a glass of wine but do not want to commit to opening a bottle.
Boxed wine is also great from an environmental perspective. A box, barely the size of two bottles, typically holds the equivalent of 4 bottles of wine, so more can be packed into each shipment, reducing the carbon cost of moving the wine around. That cost is further reduced by the very much lower weight of the package. And the package is almost entirely recyclable, although whether the plastic parts actually get recycled is an open question.
The one thing boxes are not (yet) good for, is long term storage of wine. If you buy a box, plan to drink it within the year. This has to do with the nature of the plastic, gas permeability, and details beyond the scope of this blog.
For all of these reasons box, or "cask" wine is very popular in Australia and, we are told, Europe. The box has had trouble catching on here, and producers blame the generally dreadful quality of the "wine" sold in 5-liter boxes, such as Franzia, Peter Vella, etc. We use the quotation marks advisedly. These producers may have cleaned up their act, but at least a few years ago many of the 5-liter beverages were in essence wine-flavored, alcoholic sugar-water. Yum!
In our experiments with boxed wine, we have found that the 5-liter-related stigma may not be the only thing holding them back. We have found that the first releases of the wines is generally pretty good, but subsequent releases show a marked drop in quality. We have all but given up on boxed wine, as a result.
So we turn to you, dear readers. Have you found a boxed wine you enjoy? Or dislike? Do tell which, and why? We eagerly await your reply.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Cline visit
Don't say we never did you nothing: we braved the 3-day weekend/valentine's day traffic to bring you the promised report from Cline Cellars.
As members of the wine industry, we rarely visit the "front of the house" tasting rooms. We usually skip the front entrance and head to the back, where we get royal treatment tasting with our fellow winemakers. We cry for you, but only so much. You are always welcome to come taste with us, after all. So, bellying up to the tasting bar..., well, actually, it was so crowded that it was more like we were circling vultures until a thin slice of bar opened up. Any way you look at it, it was jarring to our delicate systems. Remember, we did it for you.
Cline has a nice enough tasting room. We ignored the usual tchotchkes and were greeted by the very helpful Connie. She explained that we could choose any 5 wines among the 3 whites and 8 reds listed on the front side of the tasting sheet, and that the 4 wines on the back could be tasted at $1/per. Pretty reasonable, by tasting room standards, we think. Of course, we pulled rank and got to taste anything we wanted with no charge. Eat your hearts out.
Overall, we liked the wines. Nothing blew us away, even though we were tasting wines that were supposed to be much better than the California Syrah referenced a couple of posts back that inspired us to visit the tasting room in the first place. Why? This is a tough one. We have often experienced what we call the Tasting Room Effect, where wines that we know and love just don't taste as good at the winery as they do at home. Perhaps this is because the wines have been opened too long, the glasses are subpar (as much as we hate to admit it, glasses do make a difference), or we are just put off by the thcotchkes and crowds.
Anyway, we bought a case of wine, following our own advice (see earlier posts) to buy two of everything. So we'll see if the wines show better chez nous than they did at Cline. Yes, you will get reports.
Here's the list: what we did not taste, what we tasted, and what we bought.
2007 Pinot Gris Sonoma Coast, $12
2007 Oakley four Whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Palomino, Malvasia Bianca. Hm, wondering now why we did not taste this. Palomino is the main grape in Sherry. $11
2007 Los Carneros Viognier, $16. We tasted this one, and liked it very much. Classic viognier (floral, pretty, with enough weight to keep drinking it). At this point we have a backlog of whites, so we are only buying whites that blow us away. This was good, but did not make the cut.
2006 Oakley five reds (Merlot, Barbera, Cab Franc, Syrah, Mourvedre), $11.
2007 Cashmere, California, $21. We tasted this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre (GSM, or as Cline says, "Gimme Some More!"). The G and M come from Oakley, and the S from Sonoma. It was plenty tasty, but not enough to justify the price. Mind you, this is a bargain compared to many similar blends from Napa and Sonoma, but we think most of those pale compared to the typical $10-15 Cotes-du-Rhone, as did this.
2007 Ancient Vines Carignane, Contra Costa County, $16. We tasted this. Carignane is a notoriously tough grape. Tough flavors, tough to make interesting, tough from just about any perspective. This wine was quaffable enough, but not special.
2007 Ancient Vines Mourvedre, Contra Costa County, $18. This was much more generous than the Carignane, but still did not deliver enough to get us excited. Cline makes a reserve Mourvedre, but they were sold out so we could not taste it.
2007 Syrah Sonoma County, $12. This is the current release of the Syrah we tasted earlier, then called California. We did not taste it, but bought two bottles on faith.
2006 Cool Climate Syrah, Sonoma Coast, $16, and
2005 Los Carneros Syrah, $28. We tasted these two side-by-side, and neither had the spark that so enticed us in the California Syrah we tasted a few weeks ago. The Los Carneros was more interesting, and quite good nonetheless, so we decided to chalk it up to the aforementioned Tasting Room Effect and bought two bottles.
We then tasted 4 Zinfandels side-by-side (Cline makes single vineyard designate Zinfandels from Contra Costa County, but these were sold out at the time of our visit):
2007 Zinfandel, California, $12
2007 Ancient Vines Zinfandel, California, $18
2006 Sonoma Zinfandel, $26
2007 Heritage Zinfandel, Contra Costa County, $34
The entry-level Zin is Cline's best-selling wine. It had a pleasant, classic Zinfandel nose. Nice but unremarkable. The Ancient Vines was a decided step up, and we bought two bottles. The Sonoma Zin, made from fruit purchased from Sonoma Valley, really highlighted the difference between Sonoma and Contra Costa Zinfandel. Our favorite of the four (we bought two bottles), this wine was richer and more complex than the others. The Heritage Zin, essentially a blend of the 4 Contra Costa single vineyard Zins, had real potential, and may be too young to be showing it now. We bought two bottles to find out.
On our way out Connie insisted we try their late-harvest Mourvedre, and advised that we visit Cline's sister winery, Jacuzzi, across the street. Partly good advice. The late harvest Mourvedre would please any lover of ruby port, and would go wonderfully with any rich, chocolatey dessert. Jacuzzi was a major disappointment. The wines are mostly made from relatively obscure Italian varieties, such as Arneis, Lagrein, Nero D'Avola, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto..., but all were disappointing, and about 50% more expensive than their supposed counterparts at Cline.
Cline is very close to San Francisco, and not so much farther from the East Bay. If you can brave a tasting room scene there are worse places to go, and other good visits nearby, such as Gloria Ferrer. But Cline wines are widely available so there is no reason to go out of your way to visit. We enjoyed everything we tasted at Cline and the prices are hard to beat in California. We were hoping for a bit more out of the wines, and once we open at home what we bought today, we'll let you know whether we find it.
As members of the wine industry, we rarely visit the "front of the house" tasting rooms. We usually skip the front entrance and head to the back, where we get royal treatment tasting with our fellow winemakers. We cry for you, but only so much. You are always welcome to come taste with us, after all. So, bellying up to the tasting bar..., well, actually, it was so crowded that it was more like we were circling vultures until a thin slice of bar opened up. Any way you look at it, it was jarring to our delicate systems. Remember, we did it for you.
Cline has a nice enough tasting room. We ignored the usual tchotchkes and were greeted by the very helpful Connie. She explained that we could choose any 5 wines among the 3 whites and 8 reds listed on the front side of the tasting sheet, and that the 4 wines on the back could be tasted at $1/per. Pretty reasonable, by tasting room standards, we think. Of course, we pulled rank and got to taste anything we wanted with no charge. Eat your hearts out.
Overall, we liked the wines. Nothing blew us away, even though we were tasting wines that were supposed to be much better than the California Syrah referenced a couple of posts back that inspired us to visit the tasting room in the first place. Why? This is a tough one. We have often experienced what we call the Tasting Room Effect, where wines that we know and love just don't taste as good at the winery as they do at home. Perhaps this is because the wines have been opened too long, the glasses are subpar (as much as we hate to admit it, glasses do make a difference), or we are just put off by the thcotchkes and crowds.
Anyway, we bought a case of wine, following our own advice (see earlier posts) to buy two of everything. So we'll see if the wines show better chez nous than they did at Cline. Yes, you will get reports.
Here's the list: what we did not taste, what we tasted, and what we bought.
2007 Pinot Gris Sonoma Coast, $12
2007 Oakley four Whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Palomino, Malvasia Bianca. Hm, wondering now why we did not taste this. Palomino is the main grape in Sherry. $11
2007 Los Carneros Viognier, $16. We tasted this one, and liked it very much. Classic viognier (floral, pretty, with enough weight to keep drinking it). At this point we have a backlog of whites, so we are only buying whites that blow us away. This was good, but did not make the cut.
2006 Oakley five reds (Merlot, Barbera, Cab Franc, Syrah, Mourvedre), $11.
2007 Cashmere, California, $21. We tasted this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre (GSM, or as Cline says, "Gimme Some More!"). The G and M come from Oakley, and the S from Sonoma. It was plenty tasty, but not enough to justify the price. Mind you, this is a bargain compared to many similar blends from Napa and Sonoma, but we think most of those pale compared to the typical $10-15 Cotes-du-Rhone, as did this.
2007 Ancient Vines Carignane, Contra Costa County, $16. We tasted this. Carignane is a notoriously tough grape. Tough flavors, tough to make interesting, tough from just about any perspective. This wine was quaffable enough, but not special.
2007 Ancient Vines Mourvedre, Contra Costa County, $18. This was much more generous than the Carignane, but still did not deliver enough to get us excited. Cline makes a reserve Mourvedre, but they were sold out so we could not taste it.
2007 Syrah Sonoma County, $12. This is the current release of the Syrah we tasted earlier, then called California. We did not taste it, but bought two bottles on faith.
2006 Cool Climate Syrah, Sonoma Coast, $16, and
2005 Los Carneros Syrah, $28. We tasted these two side-by-side, and neither had the spark that so enticed us in the California Syrah we tasted a few weeks ago. The Los Carneros was more interesting, and quite good nonetheless, so we decided to chalk it up to the aforementioned Tasting Room Effect and bought two bottles.
We then tasted 4 Zinfandels side-by-side (Cline makes single vineyard designate Zinfandels from Contra Costa County, but these were sold out at the time of our visit):
2007 Zinfandel, California, $12
2007 Ancient Vines Zinfandel, California, $18
2006 Sonoma Zinfandel, $26
2007 Heritage Zinfandel, Contra Costa County, $34
The entry-level Zin is Cline's best-selling wine. It had a pleasant, classic Zinfandel nose. Nice but unremarkable. The Ancient Vines was a decided step up, and we bought two bottles. The Sonoma Zin, made from fruit purchased from Sonoma Valley, really highlighted the difference between Sonoma and Contra Costa Zinfandel. Our favorite of the four (we bought two bottles), this wine was richer and more complex than the others. The Heritage Zin, essentially a blend of the 4 Contra Costa single vineyard Zins, had real potential, and may be too young to be showing it now. We bought two bottles to find out.
On our way out Connie insisted we try their late-harvest Mourvedre, and advised that we visit Cline's sister winery, Jacuzzi, across the street. Partly good advice. The late harvest Mourvedre would please any lover of ruby port, and would go wonderfully with any rich, chocolatey dessert. Jacuzzi was a major disappointment. The wines are mostly made from relatively obscure Italian varieties, such as Arneis, Lagrein, Nero D'Avola, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto..., but all were disappointing, and about 50% more expensive than their supposed counterparts at Cline.
Cline is very close to San Francisco, and not so much farther from the East Bay. If you can brave a tasting room scene there are worse places to go, and other good visits nearby, such as Gloria Ferrer. But Cline wines are widely available so there is no reason to go out of your way to visit. We enjoyed everything we tasted at Cline and the prices are hard to beat in California. We were hoping for a bit more out of the wines, and once we open at home what we bought today, we'll let you know whether we find it.
Who owns what--a guide to wine brands
That interesting new wine brand you saw at the store the other day--is it an independent, artisanal operation, or is it the brainchild of a megacorporation's marketing department?
Large wine corporations are capable of making good, even great wines, so the mere fact that Brand X is in fact owned by MegaCorp Y does not necessarily mean that the Brand X wine will be no good. But large corporations are rarely adventurous or innovative, at least when it comes to consumer products. Given the choice between a $10 bottle from some genuinely small operation we have never heard of, and a $10 bottle from, say, the E&J Gallo family of products, we will always opt for the former on the grounds that we are much more likely to discover something new, interesting, even challenging.
Below you will find a list of most of the brands owned, produced or distributed by the major players in the wine industry. If there is sufficient demand, we can develop a tri-fold wallet size card for you. In the meantime, use this list as a field guide next time you are out shopping for wine.
As always, your comments are welcome. Have you tried any of the brands below? What have been your experiences? Do you wonder who really owns a new brand you have seen? If you can't find it on the list below, zap us a note and we will do our best sleuthing to get you an answer.
Nota bene: this list was compiled in February 2009. While we strived for accuracy we cannot guarantee that the list is free of errors, and we apologize for any errors herein. Change is rapid in the wine world, and doubtless many of the brands below will have or soon will vanish, change hands, be joined by sister brands, etc.
E&J Gallo owns, produces and/or distributes
Martin Codax (Spain)
Don Miguel Gascon (Argentina)
Alamos (Chile)
Ecco Domani (Italy)
Bella Sera (Italy)
Sebeca (South Africa)
Red Bicyclette (France)
Da Vinci (Italy)
Black Swan (Australia)
Redwood Creek
Gallo of Sonoma/Gallo Family
Frei Brothers
MacMurray Ranch
Napa Valley Vineyards
Marcelina
Anapamu
Indigo Hills
Andre
Ballatore
Boone's Farm
Turning Leaf
Peter Vella
Carlo Rossi
Twin Valley
William Hill
Canyon Road
Louis M Martini
Martha Stewart Vintage
Barefoot Cellars
The Wine Group owns, produces and/or distributes
Franzia
Fish Eye
Big House
Corbett Canyon
Glen Ellen
Foxhorn
Mogen David
Almaden
Ingelnook
Concannon
Cupcake Cellars
Pinot Evil
Herding Cats
Italian Casarsa
MG Vallejo
Morassutti
Constellation Brands owns, produces and/or distributes
Robert Mondavi Winery
Woodbridge by Mondavi
Franciscan Estates
Clos du Bois
Arbor Mist
Mount Veeder
Simi
Estancia
Inniskillin (Canada)
Drylands (NZ)
Kim Crawford (NZ)
Tintara (Australia)
Ruffino (Italy)
Black Box
Nobilo (NZ)
Ravenswood
Blackstone
Toasted Head
RH Phillips
Hogue
Alice White
Cook's
Talus
Vendange
Monkey Bay
Rex Goliath
Turner Road
Bronco Wine Company owns, produces, and/or distributes
Forestville
Estrella
Montpellier
Grand Cru
Silver Ridge
Rutherford Vintners
Hacienda
Fox Hollow
Napa Ridge
Harlow Ridge
Santa Barbara Landing
Fat Cat
Crane Lake
Forest Glen
Foxbrook
JW Morris
Quail Ridge
Sea Ridge
Charles Shaw
Napa Creek
Fosters owns, produces and/or distributes
Beringer
Lindeman's (Australia)
Wolf Blass (Australia)
Penfolds (Australia)
Rosemount (Australia)
Wynns Coonawarra Estate (Australia)
Etude
Stags' Leap Winery
St Clement
Chateau St Jean
Souverain
Asti
Meridian
Bohemian Highway
Festival 34
Trinchero Family Estates owns, produces and/or distributes
Sutter Home
Napa Cellars
Folie a Deux
Fre
Montevina (being renamed Terra D'Oro)
Trinity Oaks
Trinchero
Reynolds
Little Boomey (Australia)
Three Thieves
The Show
Wild Bunch
True Earth
Red Belly Black (Australia)
Paul Newman
Jargon
Sea Glass
Ste Michelle Wine Estates owns, produces and/or distributes
Chateau/Domaine Ste Michelle
Columbia Crest
Snoqualmie
Northstar
Stimson Estate
Red Diamond
Eroica
Col Solare
Conn Creek
Villa Mt Eden
14 Hands Winery
Distant Bay Winery
Erath
Vineyard 10
Diageo Chateaux & Estates owns, produces or distributes
Beaulieu Vineyard
Sterling
Solaris
Century Cellars
Acacia
Moon Mountain
FE Trimbach
Barton & Guestier
Chalone
Edna Valley
Rosenblum
Navarro Correas (Argentina)
Alma Viva (Chile)
Sacred Hill (NZ)
Canoe Ridge
Jade Mountain
Sagelands
Echelon
Provenance
Hewitt
Orogeny
Dynamite
Archetype (Australia)
New Harbor (NZ)
Stellina di Notte (Italy)
Jackson Family Wines owns, produces and/or distributes
Kendall-Jackson
White Rocket
Cardinale
Atalon
Lokoya
Carmel Road
Cambria
Hartford Court/Hartford Family
Matanzas Creek
La Crema
Stonestreet
Verite
Archipel
Freemark Abbey
Arrowood
Murphy-Goode
La Jota
Pelton House
Kinton
Maggy Hawk
Highland Estates
Byron
Edmeades
Calina
Delicato owns, produces and/or distributes
Delicato
Bota Box
King Fish
Night Owl
Twisted
Gnarly Head
Chateau Maris (France)
Joe Blow
Loredona
Brazin
Foghead
337
Irony
Clay Station
Terlato Wines International owns, produces and/or distributes
Alderbrook
Baglio di Pianetto
Bodega Tamari
Bollinger
Boutari
Brandlin
Ca' del Bosco
Ca'Marcanda
Chanson
Chimney Rock
Cuvaison Estate Wines
Domaine Tournon
Episode
Ernie Els Wines
Gaja
Galaxy
Giarrusso
Glass Mountain
Hanna
Il Poggione
Josmeyer
Kettmeir
Langlois-Chateau
Luke Donald Collection
M. Chapoutier
Markham
Martinez
Mazzoni
Mischief & Mayhem
Nonino
Olvera
Peller Estates
Rochioli
Rust en Vrede
Rutherford Hill
Sanford
Santa Margherita
Seven Daughters
Sokol Blosser
Tangley Oaks
Terlato Family Vineyards
Terlato-Chapoutier
Gunns Limited owns, produces and/or distributes
Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard
Devil's Corner
Large wine corporations are capable of making good, even great wines, so the mere fact that Brand X is in fact owned by MegaCorp Y does not necessarily mean that the Brand X wine will be no good. But large corporations are rarely adventurous or innovative, at least when it comes to consumer products. Given the choice between a $10 bottle from some genuinely small operation we have never heard of, and a $10 bottle from, say, the E&J Gallo family of products, we will always opt for the former on the grounds that we are much more likely to discover something new, interesting, even challenging.
Below you will find a list of most of the brands owned, produced or distributed by the major players in the wine industry. If there is sufficient demand, we can develop a tri-fold wallet size card for you. In the meantime, use this list as a field guide next time you are out shopping for wine.
As always, your comments are welcome. Have you tried any of the brands below? What have been your experiences? Do you wonder who really owns a new brand you have seen? If you can't find it on the list below, zap us a note and we will do our best sleuthing to get you an answer.
Nota bene: this list was compiled in February 2009. While we strived for accuracy we cannot guarantee that the list is free of errors, and we apologize for any errors herein. Change is rapid in the wine world, and doubtless many of the brands below will have or soon will vanish, change hands, be joined by sister brands, etc.
E&J Gallo owns, produces and/or distributes
Martin Codax (Spain)
Don Miguel Gascon (Argentina)
Alamos (Chile)
Ecco Domani (Italy)
Bella Sera (Italy)
Sebeca (South Africa)
Red Bicyclette (France)
Da Vinci (Italy)
Black Swan (Australia)
Redwood Creek
Gallo of Sonoma/Gallo Family
Frei Brothers
MacMurray Ranch
Napa Valley Vineyards
Marcelina
Anapamu
Indigo Hills
Andre
Ballatore
Boone's Farm
Turning Leaf
Peter Vella
Carlo Rossi
Twin Valley
William Hill
Canyon Road
Louis M Martini
Martha Stewart Vintage
Barefoot Cellars
The Wine Group owns, produces and/or distributes
Franzia
Fish Eye
Big House
Corbett Canyon
Glen Ellen
Foxhorn
Mogen David
Almaden
Ingelnook
Concannon
Cupcake Cellars
Pinot Evil
Herding Cats
Italian Casarsa
MG Vallejo
Morassutti
Constellation Brands owns, produces and/or distributes
Robert Mondavi Winery
Woodbridge by Mondavi
Franciscan Estates
Clos du Bois
Arbor Mist
Mount Veeder
Simi
Estancia
Inniskillin (Canada)
Drylands (NZ)
Kim Crawford (NZ)
Tintara (Australia)
Ruffino (Italy)
Black Box
Nobilo (NZ)
Ravenswood
Blackstone
Toasted Head
RH Phillips
Hogue
Alice White
Cook's
Talus
Vendange
Monkey Bay
Rex Goliath
Turner Road
Bronco Wine Company owns, produces, and/or distributes
Forestville
Estrella
Montpellier
Grand Cru
Silver Ridge
Rutherford Vintners
Hacienda
Fox Hollow
Napa Ridge
Harlow Ridge
Santa Barbara Landing
Fat Cat
Crane Lake
Forest Glen
Foxbrook
JW Morris
Quail Ridge
Sea Ridge
Charles Shaw
Napa Creek
Fosters owns, produces and/or distributes
Beringer
Lindeman's (Australia)
Wolf Blass (Australia)
Penfolds (Australia)
Rosemount (Australia)
Wynns Coonawarra Estate (Australia)
Etude
Stags' Leap Winery
St Clement
Chateau St Jean
Souverain
Asti
Meridian
Bohemian Highway
Festival 34
Trinchero Family Estates owns, produces and/or distributes
Sutter Home
Napa Cellars
Folie a Deux
Fre
Montevina (being renamed Terra D'Oro)
Trinity Oaks
Trinchero
Reynolds
Little Boomey (Australia)
Three Thieves
The Show
Wild Bunch
True Earth
Red Belly Black (Australia)
Paul Newman
Jargon
Sea Glass
Ste Michelle Wine Estates owns, produces and/or distributes
Chateau/Domaine Ste Michelle
Columbia Crest
Snoqualmie
Northstar
Stimson Estate
Red Diamond
Eroica
Col Solare
Conn Creek
Villa Mt Eden
14 Hands Winery
Distant Bay Winery
Erath
Vineyard 10
Diageo Chateaux & Estates owns, produces or distributes
Beaulieu Vineyard
Sterling
Solaris
Century Cellars
Acacia
Moon Mountain
FE Trimbach
Barton & Guestier
Chalone
Edna Valley
Rosenblum
Navarro Correas (Argentina)
Alma Viva (Chile)
Sacred Hill (NZ)
Canoe Ridge
Jade Mountain
Sagelands
Echelon
Provenance
Hewitt
Orogeny
Dynamite
Archetype (Australia)
New Harbor (NZ)
Stellina di Notte (Italy)
Jackson Family Wines owns, produces and/or distributes
Kendall-Jackson
White Rocket
Cardinale
Atalon
Lokoya
Carmel Road
Cambria
Hartford Court/Hartford Family
Matanzas Creek
La Crema
Stonestreet
Verite
Archipel
Freemark Abbey
Arrowood
Murphy-Goode
La Jota
Pelton House
Kinton
Maggy Hawk
Highland Estates
Byron
Edmeades
Calina
Delicato owns, produces and/or distributes
Delicato
Bota Box
King Fish
Night Owl
Twisted
Gnarly Head
Chateau Maris (France)
Joe Blow
Loredona
Brazin
Foghead
337
Irony
Clay Station
Terlato Wines International owns, produces and/or distributes
Alderbrook
Baglio di Pianetto
Bodega Tamari
Bollinger
Boutari
Brandlin
Ca' del Bosco
Ca'Marcanda
Chanson
Chimney Rock
Cuvaison Estate Wines
Domaine Tournon
Episode
Ernie Els Wines
Gaja
Galaxy
Giarrusso
Glass Mountain
Hanna
Il Poggione
Josmeyer
Kettmeir
Langlois-Chateau
Luke Donald Collection
M. Chapoutier
Markham
Martinez
Mazzoni
Mischief & Mayhem
Nonino
Olvera
Peller Estates
Rochioli
Rust en Vrede
Rutherford Hill
Sanford
Santa Margherita
Seven Daughters
Sokol Blosser
Tangley Oaks
Terlato Family Vineyards
Terlato-Chapoutier
Gunns Limited owns, produces and/or distributes
Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard
Devil's Corner
Monday, February 9, 2009
Cline Syrah, and more to come
We recently enjoyed dinner with two faithful readers of the blog, who shared with us one of the wines they bought at the Safeway sale (see below), a Cline Syrah (~$10). The short answer? We were amazed.We have enjoyed many Cline wines in the past but we never seem to buy them. This may change. Cline is perhaps best known for its Zinfandels and Mourvedres, many of which come from vineyards in sandy eastern Contra Costa County. Before you scoff, you should know that this is also where cult (or nearly so) producer Turley sources many of its grapes. The evil scourge phylloxera does not do well in sandy soil, allowing Contra Costa County vineyards to grow to extreme ages.
This Syrah is labeled California, which means the grapes could really come from anywhere in the state. Most likely the wine is a blend, with grapes from many regions.
But what about the wine? Well, Syrah can be many things, which is perhaps why it is having a hard time establishing itself in the marketplace. One of our favorite expressions of Syrah is Cote-Rotie, in the northern Rhone in France. There the wine is perfumed and sometimes just smelly, but in an interestingly meaty, smoky way. On the palate it is remarkably light. Most new world Syrah, whether from Australia (Shiraz), California, or elsewhere, lacks the smokiness and is heavy to the point of syrup. And the Cline? Very nicely balanced--far from syrupy--and intriguingly smoky.
We liked the wine so much that we are planning a trip to the winery to see what else they have to offer. You will see a full report here.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Harvest update
At last the 2008 harvest is winding down. We await something between 1 and 13 tons of grapes, all of which will probably come in this week. The fermenting wines will continue to command our attention for some time, but life should return to some semblance of normalcy by the end of October. Faithful readers can expect more regular posting at that point.
We are very pleased to have received comments from TWO distinct readers. So nice to make a connection. We strongly encourage further comments, questions and suggestions, and we shall make every effort to respond, answer and accommodate.
Thanks for reading!
We are very pleased to have received comments from TWO distinct readers. So nice to make a connection. We strongly encourage further comments, questions and suggestions, and we shall make every effort to respond, answer and accommodate.
Thanks for reading!
Monday, September 15, 2008
DIY--Wine by the people, of the people, and for the people
We now spend all day every day making wine, so naturally when we are home all we think about is... making wine.
We hereby encourage each of you to make some wine while you can. Don't live nearby suitable grapes? Ask your local brewery supply store if they have any to sell. Many stores by a ton or two of good grapes to divvy up amongst their customers.
It's also not too late to make a fruit wine. That's right, fruit wine. Don't be scared. It will only be sickly sweet if you make it that way. And you'll only make it that way if you want it that way.
FRUIT WINE BASICS
Grapes are the perfect fruit for winemaking--their balance of acid and sugar just can't be beat. But it can be reproduced. Compared to grapes, most fruits have far more acid and far less sugar. You can compensate by adding water to dilute the acid, and sugar to boost the finished alcohol. Remember, sugar in fruit, whether winegrapes or figs, blackberries or pears, will become alcohol in the wine. It will remain as sugar in the wine only if you stop the fermentation.
It takes 12-15 pounds of grapes to make a gallon of wine. I recommend using about 4 pounds per gallon of any other fruit, bringing up the volume with water containing sufficient sugar to reach the alcohol level you desire. 22 Brix (22 grams of sugar per 100 grams of solution) will yield a wine of about 12% alcohol. Want a little more? Shoot for 24 Brix. A little less, 20 Brix. You can measure Brix directly with a hydrometer from that brewing supply store, or you can do math. I recommend ignoring the sugar content in the fruit--it won't make much difference in the final alcohol.
MATH
A gallon is 3.786 liters, which, conveniently, weighs 3,786 grams. 22 Brix is 22 grams sugar/100 grams solution, so a gallon of 22 Brix water contains 22/100 * 3786 g sugar = 833 grams of sugar. That works out to about 29 ounces. The key is that the total volume of the solution is one gallon. You are not dissolving 29 ounces of sugar in one gallon--the resulting volume would be greater than one gallon and your final Brix would be less than 22. So you weigh out the sugar and pour boiling water over it to dissolve the sugar, slowly adding water until you reach the gallon mark.
Throw in your fruit (as mashed up as possible), add some yeast if you want (you probably won't need to), and let 'er rip. In a day or two you'll notice the fermentation starting. After a week or so you'll notice that it's about done. When it really slows down, you'll want to transfer it to a container that fits it well (minimal airspace). That container should be sealed with an airlock to let CO2 out while excluding the ingress of air. A stopper and airlock will set you back less than $1 at your brewing store.
When all airlock-bubbling is done, you've got wine. Transfer the clear wine off the lees (sediment) to a airlock container (wise to continue with the airlock, just in case). At this point you can let the wine age or consume it.
Any questions? Ask away. And don't forget to tell us about your home winemaking projects!
We hereby encourage each of you to make some wine while you can. Don't live nearby suitable grapes? Ask your local brewery supply store if they have any to sell. Many stores by a ton or two of good grapes to divvy up amongst their customers.
It's also not too late to make a fruit wine. That's right, fruit wine. Don't be scared. It will only be sickly sweet if you make it that way. And you'll only make it that way if you want it that way.
FRUIT WINE BASICS
Grapes are the perfect fruit for winemaking--their balance of acid and sugar just can't be beat. But it can be reproduced. Compared to grapes, most fruits have far more acid and far less sugar. You can compensate by adding water to dilute the acid, and sugar to boost the finished alcohol. Remember, sugar in fruit, whether winegrapes or figs, blackberries or pears, will become alcohol in the wine. It will remain as sugar in the wine only if you stop the fermentation.
It takes 12-15 pounds of grapes to make a gallon of wine. I recommend using about 4 pounds per gallon of any other fruit, bringing up the volume with water containing sufficient sugar to reach the alcohol level you desire. 22 Brix (22 grams of sugar per 100 grams of solution) will yield a wine of about 12% alcohol. Want a little more? Shoot for 24 Brix. A little less, 20 Brix. You can measure Brix directly with a hydrometer from that brewing supply store, or you can do math. I recommend ignoring the sugar content in the fruit--it won't make much difference in the final alcohol.
MATH
A gallon is 3.786 liters, which, conveniently, weighs 3,786 grams. 22 Brix is 22 grams sugar/100 grams solution, so a gallon of 22 Brix water contains 22/100 * 3786 g sugar = 833 grams of sugar. That works out to about 29 ounces. The key is that the total volume of the solution is one gallon. You are not dissolving 29 ounces of sugar in one gallon--the resulting volume would be greater than one gallon and your final Brix would be less than 22. So you weigh out the sugar and pour boiling water over it to dissolve the sugar, slowly adding water until you reach the gallon mark.
Throw in your fruit (as mashed up as possible), add some yeast if you want (you probably won't need to), and let 'er rip. In a day or two you'll notice the fermentation starting. After a week or so you'll notice that it's about done. When it really slows down, you'll want to transfer it to a container that fits it well (minimal airspace). That container should be sealed with an airlock to let CO2 out while excluding the ingress of air. A stopper and airlock will set you back less than $1 at your brewing store.
When all airlock-bubbling is done, you've got wine. Transfer the clear wine off the lees (sediment) to a airlock container (wise to continue with the airlock, just in case). At this point you can let the wine age or consume it.
Any questions? Ask away. And don't forget to tell us about your home winemaking projects!
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
HARVEST!
Harvest is upon us, folks. The time of year of 12-hour days and weekend-less weeks. Don't worry, we're still drinking wine. We just have less time to share our discoveries with you.
We'll post as we can. In the meantime, poke around the site here and please let us know what you think, and what you would like to see once the harvest madness is over.
We'll post as we can. In the meantime, poke around the site here and please let us know what you think, and what you would like to see once the harvest madness is over.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Bloggergate, and what are reviews for, anyway?
We just learned of a minor hullabaloo regarding publicity for Rodney Strong's new high-end wine, Rockaway. It appears that Rodney Strong sent samples of the wine to bloggers--no, we were not among them--many of whom went on to trumpet the wine's praises in their blogs. A further, irrelevant dimension of the "scandal" is that many in the blogosphere wrote very similar reviews of the wine, probably parroting the promotional material accompanying the bottle.
Rockaway is expected to retail for about $75. As far as we can tell, Rodney Strong is attempting to create a "cult" or at least "cultish" wine through the not exactly proven techniques of generating buzz and implying scarcity.
We here at WftP do not concern ourselves with such wines. (NB: WE ARE VERY HAPPY TO RECEIVE SAMPLES.) (NB2: we have yet to receive any samples.) But why does anyone? We know full well that many very expensive wines that are not worth the glass they are bottled in. Let alone the price of the blemish-free, 2-inch cork they are invariably stoppered with. And some of course are heavenly. But really, if some vaguely anonymous souls on the web advised that the $150 bottle of Chateau X was a great wine, would you care? Wouldn't you assume that the wine would be special to someone, even if you did not know whether you shared their taste? And unless you know your blogger very well, how do you know you share their taste?
Description, we imagine. And we suppose that descriptions that impart information beyond "gobs of fruit, TNT-levels of glycerin, and soft, supple tannins with a finish that lasts into the 23rd century" are why faithful readers are such. But still.
How often do you, our faithful readers, spend that kind of money on wine? And whose advice, if anyone's do you seek out before you shell out?
We stand by our opinion that helping you find the pearl in a sea of low-priced plonk is a more valuable service, but we ask these questions in earnest. If you advise that you would like our opinions on more high-falutin' bottles, we will do our best to provide them. Of course, it will help if the samples start coming our way.
Rockaway is expected to retail for about $75. As far as we can tell, Rodney Strong is attempting to create a "cult" or at least "cultish" wine through the not exactly proven techniques of generating buzz and implying scarcity.
We here at WftP do not concern ourselves with such wines. (NB: WE ARE VERY HAPPY TO RECEIVE SAMPLES.) (NB2: we have yet to receive any samples.) But why does anyone? We know full well that many very expensive wines that are not worth the glass they are bottled in. Let alone the price of the blemish-free, 2-inch cork they are invariably stoppered with. And some of course are heavenly. But really, if some vaguely anonymous souls on the web advised that the $150 bottle of Chateau X was a great wine, would you care? Wouldn't you assume that the wine would be special to someone, even if you did not know whether you shared their taste? And unless you know your blogger very well, how do you know you share their taste?
Description, we imagine. And we suppose that descriptions that impart information beyond "gobs of fruit, TNT-levels of glycerin, and soft, supple tannins with a finish that lasts into the 23rd century" are why faithful readers are such. But still.
How often do you, our faithful readers, spend that kind of money on wine? And whose advice, if anyone's do you seek out before you shell out?
We stand by our opinion that helping you find the pearl in a sea of low-priced plonk is a more valuable service, but we ask these questions in earnest. If you advise that you would like our opinions on more high-falutin' bottles, we will do our best to provide them. Of course, it will help if the samples start coming our way.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Shane Wine Cellars and a Spell preview
Shane Finley convened a great group of people Saturday at Sebastopol's West County Grill. We had not been to the Grill before, but the food was terrific, and wonderfully paired with Shane's wines. In addition to pouring the current line-up of three Syrahs and his Shane Rose (of Syrah), Shane brought 6 Rhone whites from 2001, most of which were given to him when he worked in the Northern Rhone in 2002-2003.
We started by passing around some bottles of the Shane 2007 Ma Fille Rose (of Syrah, sold out but under $20 on release) while we waited for everyone to arrive and got to know each other. We then turned to the Rhones. Our first flight consisted of two Yves Cuilleron St-Joseph Blancs, one, "Le Lombard," 100% Marsanne, and the other, "Lyseras," a 50/50 Rousanne/Marsanne blend. The third wine of the flight was a Pierre Gaillard 100% Rousanne, also from St-Joseph. The wines were beautiful. For me the pure Rousanne had the most interesting nose, but the 50/50 blend was best on the palate due to its higher acidity.
As we wound down the first flight, the first course arrived: fried squid paired with salt cod croquettes, with a great aioli. We nibbled on that as we finished the first flight, and kept nibbling through the second flight. That flight consisted of two more St-J's and a Crozes-Hermitage, all still 2001 and all Rousanne/Marsanne blends. The Crozes was Domaine Tardy. One St-J was Guigal "Lieu-Dit," and the other was Louis Cheze "Cuvee Ro-Ree." It was remarkable how different these wines were from one another, and how different the set was from the first. All were pleasant, but I found the Guigal a little harsh. The Cheze was rather oxidized but still quite tasty, while the Domaine Tardy was just amazing with the food, again because of higher acid. Ah, memory.
Plates and glasses were cleared and replaced, and Shane personally poured each of his three 2006 Syrahs: Jemrose, The Unknown and Valenti (Jemrose and Valenti sold out; all under $40 on release). We had the tough choice of pairing these with a roast leg of lamb or a Liberty duck breast. Owing to our plural existence, we were able to enjoy both choices.
We were particularly excited to try these wines because we have not tasted them since before they were bottled, and we wondered when we should open our own bottles. The verdict: not for a while. All three wines were extremely delicious now, but they are so tightly wound, dense and layered, that they promise even more down the road.
It was great going back and forth among the wines, back and forth among the lamb and duck, and then back to the wines. It makes no sense to talk of preference at this point, as all the wines are wonderful, different and still very much evolving. While all three were ripe and powerful, the varietal character was true. The Valenti was a bit of a surprise because it was at least as dark and intense as the other two, and Valenti is an Anderson Valley site. The clonal composition of the three wines is different. The Valenti is Shiraz 1, and, perhaps because that's why we detected some flavors associated more with Australia than Anderson Valley. Still, this is very much Syrah rather than Shiraz. The Valenti is also the closest to ready to drink, although we would recommend a vigorous decant to anyone opening one now.
This time when plates were cleared we got to keep our glasses. Out came some Humboldt Fog smothered in chestnut honey, and Shane brought out a treat: a not-yet-released Jemrose Vyd Viognier "Egret Pond" that he Michael are making under the Jemrose label. Dead-on, classic, textbook Viognier (no price available). Delicious and perfect with the cheese.
A plum tart completed the meal, and after wrapping up at the Grill we headed over to the new Shane digs just north of Sebastopol. There we got to taste through the 4 2007 Shane Syrahs and the 2 2007 Spell Pinots, all about a month away from bottling. Spell is Shane's new Pinot project (no pricing as yet). We first tasted the Barton Vineyard (Russian River Valley), which is a blend of Pommard and 115 clones. A 25% whole cluster fermentation, 1 new barrel out of only 2 total. The second Spell Pinot was from the Weir Vineyard in the Yorkville Highlands. Clones DRC, 2a, and Rochioli. 20% whole cluster and 2 new barrels out of 5 total.
The Spells were delicious. Although they are made a bit differently from the Kosta-Browne wines, they were similar to me in their combination of ripeness, power and restraint. These wines are layered, complex, and tasty, but are not overextracted or blowsy.
The 2007 Shane wines for their part are at least the equal of the 2006s. They will similarly need a great deal of time. The new wine in the lineup is the Villain Syrah, blended from Alder Springs and Broken Leg Vineyards, with a touch of Valenti press wine thrown in for good measure. The clones are 383, 470, 170, 99, Shiraz 1 and a splash of 877. The Villain fit very well into the lineup.
Shane's up to great stuff with his Syrahs and Pinots, not to mention the Rose. We wish him the best for the 2008 harvest, and look forward to the release of the 2007s.
We started by passing around some bottles of the Shane 2007 Ma Fille Rose (of Syrah, sold out but under $20 on release) while we waited for everyone to arrive and got to know each other. We then turned to the Rhones. Our first flight consisted of two Yves Cuilleron St-Joseph Blancs, one, "Le Lombard," 100% Marsanne, and the other, "Lyseras," a 50/50 Rousanne/Marsanne blend. The third wine of the flight was a Pierre Gaillard 100% Rousanne, also from St-Joseph. The wines were beautiful. For me the pure Rousanne had the most interesting nose, but the 50/50 blend was best on the palate due to its higher acidity.
As we wound down the first flight, the first course arrived: fried squid paired with salt cod croquettes, with a great aioli. We nibbled on that as we finished the first flight, and kept nibbling through the second flight. That flight consisted of two more St-J's and a Crozes-Hermitage, all still 2001 and all Rousanne/Marsanne blends. The Crozes was Domaine Tardy. One St-J was Guigal "Lieu-Dit," and the other was Louis Cheze "Cuvee Ro-Ree." It was remarkable how different these wines were from one another, and how different the set was from the first. All were pleasant, but I found the Guigal a little harsh. The Cheze was rather oxidized but still quite tasty, while the Domaine Tardy was just amazing with the food, again because of higher acid. Ah, memory.
Plates and glasses were cleared and replaced, and Shane personally poured each of his three 2006 Syrahs: Jemrose, The Unknown and Valenti (Jemrose and Valenti sold out; all under $40 on release). We had the tough choice of pairing these with a roast leg of lamb or a Liberty duck breast. Owing to our plural existence, we were able to enjoy both choices.
We were particularly excited to try these wines because we have not tasted them since before they were bottled, and we wondered when we should open our own bottles. The verdict: not for a while. All three wines were extremely delicious now, but they are so tightly wound, dense and layered, that they promise even more down the road.
It was great going back and forth among the wines, back and forth among the lamb and duck, and then back to the wines. It makes no sense to talk of preference at this point, as all the wines are wonderful, different and still very much evolving. While all three were ripe and powerful, the varietal character was true. The Valenti was a bit of a surprise because it was at least as dark and intense as the other two, and Valenti is an Anderson Valley site. The clonal composition of the three wines is different. The Valenti is Shiraz 1, and, perhaps because that's why we detected some flavors associated more with Australia than Anderson Valley. Still, this is very much Syrah rather than Shiraz. The Valenti is also the closest to ready to drink, although we would recommend a vigorous decant to anyone opening one now.
This time when plates were cleared we got to keep our glasses. Out came some Humboldt Fog smothered in chestnut honey, and Shane brought out a treat: a not-yet-released Jemrose Vyd Viognier "Egret Pond" that he Michael are making under the Jemrose label. Dead-on, classic, textbook Viognier (no price available). Delicious and perfect with the cheese.
A plum tart completed the meal, and after wrapping up at the Grill we headed over to the new Shane digs just north of Sebastopol. There we got to taste through the 4 2007 Shane Syrahs and the 2 2007 Spell Pinots, all about a month away from bottling. Spell is Shane's new Pinot project (no pricing as yet). We first tasted the Barton Vineyard (Russian River Valley), which is a blend of Pommard and 115 clones. A 25% whole cluster fermentation, 1 new barrel out of only 2 total. The second Spell Pinot was from the Weir Vineyard in the Yorkville Highlands. Clones DRC, 2a, and Rochioli. 20% whole cluster and 2 new barrels out of 5 total.
The Spells were delicious. Although they are made a bit differently from the Kosta-Browne wines, they were similar to me in their combination of ripeness, power and restraint. These wines are layered, complex, and tasty, but are not overextracted or blowsy.
The 2007 Shane wines for their part are at least the equal of the 2006s. They will similarly need a great deal of time. The new wine in the lineup is the Villain Syrah, blended from Alder Springs and Broken Leg Vineyards, with a touch of Valenti press wine thrown in for good measure. The clones are 383, 470, 170, 99, Shiraz 1 and a splash of 877. The Villain fit very well into the lineup.
Shane's up to great stuff with his Syrahs and Pinots, not to mention the Rose. We wish him the best for the 2008 harvest, and look forward to the release of the 2007s.
Note: What a way to start the blog. These wines are delicious, and more expensive than most we'll be recommending. Nevertheless, we believe they represent great value. There's no pricing info yet on the Spells, but recall that Kosta-Browne is not outrageously priced if you can buy it at suggested retail (good luck!).
Welcome to Wines for the People
Thanks for visiting our new blog, Wines for the People. We believe that great wine should be available to everyone, so our goal here is to help you find good wines at great prices.
Expect anything from a one- or two-line review of a particular wine to an in-depth virtual visit to a winery, with notes on everything produced there. We are very open to suggestions, questions, comments, and encouragement.
Because we are in the wine industry, we are hiding behind a thin veil of anonymity so that we can freely discuss wines someone we know may have had a hand in producing. For you puzzle solvers out there, it will not be too difficult to unmask us, but please keep your triumph to yourself.
Direct queries to PWR at att dot net
Expect anything from a one- or two-line review of a particular wine to an in-depth virtual visit to a winery, with notes on everything produced there. We are very open to suggestions, questions, comments, and encouragement.
Because we are in the wine industry, we are hiding behind a thin veil of anonymity so that we can freely discuss wines someone we know may have had a hand in producing. For you puzzle solvers out there, it will not be too difficult to unmask us, but please keep your triumph to yourself.
Direct queries to PWR at att dot net
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