Monday, March 30, 2009

Sforzato di Valtellina

Maybe you should run to Laurel Village after all.

We did return to buy the Nebbiolo from Lombardy mentioned in the previous post ($17, 1998). If you are reading this blog hoping to find recommendations for inexpensive, tasty wines, this one might not be for you. This is not a simple quaffer, no matter how tasty. This wine requires the consumer to pay some attention. If you are curious to know what is special about wines that you cannot or will not afford, this is well worth the money. In this one wine you can learn what a Nebbiolo-based wine tastes like, what a well-aged wine tastes like, what a wine made from dried grapes tastes like, and more.

As we mentioned, the wine is made from Nebbiolo, the famous grape of Piedmont's Barolo and Barbaresco wines. These wines are likened to Burgundy for their finesse and Bordeaux for their power, by people too lazy to come up with better descriptors, we suppose. They are also infamous for requiring long aging before they are ready to drink.

Nebbiolo-based wines from outside of the Barolo and Barbaresco regions are nowhere near as celebrated, so we did not know what to expect from this well-aged wine from Lombardy. The short answer is that it is wonderful.

It turns out that in the Valtellina region the grapes are dried before being made into wine, as in Amarone della Valpolicella and other Italian wines labeled "recioto". Even with this extra concentration, however, this wine is only 14.5% alcohol, which in California would be considered barely ripe. We suppose this is natural from grapes grown in the mountains near the Swiss border.

We have no idea why this particular wine turned up in this particular store (Cal-Mart in Laurel Village, San Francisco), when it did. But on the chance that it is distributed elsewhere, take a look for the wine. The big words on the label are Valtellina (the region), and Sforzato (describing the type of wine), under which is the vintage (1998). This appears to be produced at a cooperative: "nelle cantine di Chiuro (Sondrio) Italia. Good luck finding it.

So what is the wine like? We recently enjoyed a tasting of Barolo wines that cost much more than this offering. For the most part, they were better, too, but the similarities are remarkable. Violet and tar are classic descriptors for Nebbiolo, and both are here, as is tobacco and dried herbs. Plenty more, but we'll leave the rest for you to discover.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Well-aged bargains

We find ourselves spending a few days in San Francisco's Laurel Village neighborhood, in some ways a miniature Berkeley's Gourmet Ghetto. We have not been here in years and it is a joy to revisit old places (Wine Impressions, Cal-Mart) and new (Cafe Rigolo). There is more to discover.

Today's lesson has little to do with nostalgia, despite focusing on things old. Away from our wine collection, we have been buying a bottle each day. Extremely to buy what would surely be our 41st corkscrew on Day 1, we focused on screwcap wines. (By Day 2 we had retrieved one of our numerous corkscrews.) Wine Impressions had many temptations, including a 2007 A to Z Wineworks Pinot noir ($17) from Oregon, and three New Zealand Pinots, one from Marlborough, ($19), one from Martinborough ($17), and one from Hawkes Bay (Trinity Hill 2007, $17). We opted for the latter for no particular reason and were quite pleased. Finishing the bottle the next day, the wine was even better.

Returning on Day 2 we broadened our search with tremendous results. Despite the surge in popularity of Spanish wines, we found several apparent bargains on offer, including a 2004 Reserva blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha. We were about to spring for this well-aged option when we saw next to it a 2000 100% Old Vines Tempranillo Reserva from Navarro Lopez for a mere $13. This was not the most amazing wine we have ever tasted, but it was quite good and it wore its age well. If you wonder about the nature of older wines, it's hard to imagine a less expensive way to satisfy your curiosity.

At the same store we found an old reliable: Yalumba's Shiraz-Viognier, for $10-12. This is a very tasty wine despite our complaints regarding Shiraz from Oz. But it's hard to get excited about something so familiar when there are new wines to try.

Today we wandered into Cal-Mart, with no intention of looking for wine, honest! Nevertheless we found even more deals. The one we are most excited about is a 1998 Nebbiolo from the Lombardy region ($17). Nebbiolo is the famous grape of Barolo and Barbaresco in the Piedmont region, whose wines are rarely found for less than $50. The wines notoriously require lots of aging before they are ready to drink, so to find one at 11 years old at such a low price is exciting. Lombardy is not the Piedmont, and we do not expect Piedmont quality, but this is still a great opportunity.

Our point is not that you should rush to Laurel Village, but that you should keep your eyes open when you go to your regular haunts. And don't be shy about asking shop owners and clerks about older gems they may have.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Wine flavors--where do they come from?

"Strawberries, cherries, and an angel's kiss in spring/ My summer wine is really made from all these things."--"Summer Wine," by Lee Hazlewood

Gentle readers, have you ever read a description of a wine and wondered at what stage in the winemaking the blackberries, or lemon rinds, or chocolate are added? Or whether the winemakers don't bother with such messy additions and just go for the vats of "natural" flavorings from New Jersey chemical suppliers?

Well, many people have. A few years ago we were asked the blackberry question by a visitor to the winery we then worked for. And just today we were asked a similar question, more focused on the vats from New Jersey. Both times it took us several moments to grasp the question, because the reality is so very different such scenarios do not readily occur to us.

But they should. Our mission is to help people enjoy wine as much as we can. If anyone is reluctant to take a sip based on what they think might have been added to their wine, then we have a job to do.

What follows is a version of the reply we sent to today's inquirer.

We assure you that no wines you are drinking have any artificial or "natural" flavors added. There is little natural about natural flavorings (see, for instance, Michael Pollan's work), but don't worry--they aren't added to your wine. (There are some exceptions we will mention below.)

The hints of chocolate, boysenberry, citrus, etc., are just that. The grapes contain flavors that are reminiscent of some of these things (and not just reminiscent; they are the same compounds that make a cherry smell like a cherry, for instance). The oak barrels some wines are aged in impart more flavors (that are naturally present in the wood or are created by the "toasting" of the oak wood over fire). Perhaps most importantly, the yeast that ferment the wine, whether added by the winemaker or "naturally" present on the grapes (more likely simply resident in the winery), add still more flavors by producing esters that can smell of apples, bananas, and other fruit.

It gets even more complicated when these flavors are found together, as they always are in wine. For instance, there is no compound on earth that smells like strawberries. Rather, there is a combination of chemicals (mostly esters) naturally present in strawberries that together and in the right proportions impart that distinctive smell. (Vanilla, in contrast, owes to a single, rather simple compound.) Some wines nevertheless smell of strawberries, which means that they too have the same mix of aroma compounds in the same proportions, which is pretty amazing.

Some companies sell kits of essences to wineries, but not to add to the wine. Rather, the idea is to train the staff to identify components in wine. Spiking a wine glass with a chocolate aroma, for instance, helps tasters recognize the smell of chocolate that is possibly in the wine anyway.

If you are curious about that, there is no reason to buy a kit. Just buy some inexpensive wine (we recommend the 5-L Peter Vella, which should be well less than $10), and fill several glasses with about 2 ounces. Then drop in whatever you are curious about. For instance, if you use a white wine you might add a wedge of orange to one glass, one of lemon to another, etc. And if you have access to flowers those would be great, too. Jams are also good. For red wine you might try chocolate (a small chunk of a chocolate bar), boysenberries or boysenberry jam, cherries, even savory elements like coffee, rosemary, or dill. Ideally you would cover each glass and let the mixture sit for a few hours before sniffing each, but you can do it right away. It helps to have one unadulterated glass you can compare to.

Here are some exceptions.

In premium wine, there have been a few scandals. The most recent that we are aware of occurred in South Africa, where some wineries were apparently spiking their sauvignon blancs with the compound that imparts the aroma so charmingly described as cat urine. Many people do find that desirable in Sauvignon Blanc, and it does occur in SB naturally. Really. To the extent that the guilty were caught, the wines were recalled and destroyed.

In sub-premium wine, there was a mini-scandal a few years ago that requires some legalese to explain properly. Ask for details if you want them, but the point is that "natural" and possibly artificial flavors (we don't recall) were added to boxed wines.

And there are wines you'll find on the shelf today, especially if you go looking for the Peter Vella, that state that they contain natural flavorings. Make sure you avoid those if you try the experiments above.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Gundlach-Bundschu Wine Poetry Contest--Hurry!

Here's the scoop: Gundlach-Bundschu Winery is celebrating 151 years in the biz with a poetry contest. 151-word limit, no other restrictions. You can enter as many times as you wish.

Please share your submission with us, and be sure to let us know if you win anything. But hurry! The deadline is midnight PST on Thursday, March 12.

Details and entry form are here.

"In honor of our 151st anniversary, we invite everyone who is passionate about wine to tell us, in 151 words or less, what is it about wine that stirs your soul?"

Good luck!

Quickie--Chono Carmenere. Yep, more Chile

Yet another winner from the North Berkeley Chilean sampler purchased a while back. (No, we don't work for NBW/NBI!) Carmenere, a close relative of Cabernet, is little grown outside of Chile. When made poorly, the wines can be excessively green. Made well, we are not sure the world knows the potential of the grape. The wines are definitely akin to Cabernet, but often have spicy notes of cinnamon.

The 2006 Chono Carmenere from Chile's Maipo Valley does not stand out as un-Cabernet like, but it is a delicious wine. Rich and full-flavored but well in balance (it spent only 10 months in oak barrels), it would go with a range of food or stand on its own. Should be about $15.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Montes Alpha Syrah

We have been Chile- and Syrah-heavy of late, but we cannot resist posting about the recently enjoyed Montes Alpha Syrah, from Chile's Colchagua Valley. Normally in the ~$15 range, we picked this up during Safeway's sale (see below) for $11.25. This wine was tremendously exciting. Much riper than the Alto Sol Syrah (also see below), this wine should be required drinking for Australian Shiraz producers. The grapes must have been as ripe as their Australian counterparts, but the Montes Alpha offers rich fruit flavors with no alcohol overtones, in contrast to the fruit-stewed-in-alcohol aromas of too many Shiraz wines.

Monday, March 2, 2009

Confusion--Wine Review Weekly

This story just gets weirder. This is part 3. Immediately below, you'll find part 2, which is a follow up to the original post beneath it. We endeavored to spread the news about a useful, moderately useful, email service. We then discovered that the service is available only to members of the wine industry. Our promised investigation was extremely brief. Within seconds of posting part 2, we discovered that, while this service is free to those in the industry, it is available to the general public for....$349. I mean to say, "just $6.72 per week"!

Depressing and distressing. Who outside of the industry would be willing to pay for such a service? We are mystified. At any rate, the emails all include a link for forwarding to a friend. So, if any of you, after reading below, decide you would like to know what might be worth so much money, let us know and we will gladly forward the email to you. Part 2 follows....

We are perplexed. We began writing a post about an email service we thought might interest our readers. Clicking on the link to sign up, we discovered that this service is only offered to people in the wine industry. We promise to investigate. In the meanwhile, if any of you would like us to forward our weekly email, let us know via pwr at att net Below is the post that would have been:

If you like reading about wine, or if you would like more recommendations about wines to try, you might want to sign up for Wine Review Weekly, from Wine Opinions. This is a free service. Subscribers get an email each Monday morning describing all the wines reviewed in major newspapers, magazines and blogs. Each entry gives a brief description, such as

"The Oregonian: Wine columnist Matt Kramer on finding real value in wine. Cases in point are Cantele Primitivo 'Salento' 2006, and Vina Gormaz Ribera del Duero Tempranillo 2007."

Links are included so you can click your way to any article of interest.

Since signing up we have received the weekly email, and nothing else--no ads or spam. (Yes there is something about surveys with potential prize money, but we have no recollection of doing a survey, or even being offered the chance to do one. Nor have we won any prizes.)
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